Historical Fashion Tours with Sense & Sensibility

Jennie’s “Secret Salzburg!”

In any city I visit, I always try to find a few hidden treasures that might not be on the “Top Ten” list for tourists but are nevertheless worth experiencing. Without further ado, here’s my “Secret Salzburg” list for those who want to get a bit off the beaten path and experience something different.

Early morning vespers at Nonnberg Abbey. If you’ve watched “The Sound of Music,” you will recognize this landmark from the opening scene of the film and later in the movie. This working convent is where Fraulein Maria began to consider her calling before marrying Captain Von Trapp. It is also the church where they were married (it wasn’t a grand wedding in a vast cathedral like the one depicted in the film). Today there are only about 14 nuns left in the convent, but they keep a stunning garden you can view through the gate, and they rise daily to sing Gregorian chants in the screened loft of their chapel. I left the hotel at 6:15 Friday morning for the brisk walk through sleeping Salzburg to climb the stairs to the convent and make my way into the church, which was rebuilt in 1464 after a fire destroyed the original 12th-century church (the abbey itself dates back to the 700s!). The church was in near-total darkness, and I had forgotten to bring 50 cents to turn on the altar light, so I just sat down and waited in the gloom. The total peace and calm is truly amazing, and then the singing began. Hidden behind the screened clerestory, the sisters began to sing the prayers and hymns that have been sung in that place for over a thousand years. It was a beautifully moving experience, punctuated by prayers spoken in German by a priest. After half an hour and a final “Alleluia,” the nuns filed out, and I walked back to the hotel through still-quiet streets with a profound sense of well-being. This is definitely worth getting up for, and I highly recommend it. The main walk to the foot of the stairs off Kaigasse would take about 12 minutes from the center of the Altstadt, and there are a lot of stairs to climb, but if you time it right, you won’t arrive out of breath. I enjoyed the experience so much I went again on Saturday with another tour group member, and this time I took the 50-cent piece to turn on the altar light so we could see the carvings and paintings! There are Romanesque paintings under the clerestory that you can see as well. Getting there is a little bit tricky the first time, as the stairs leading up to the abbey are tucked behind a set of buildings. If you follow a GPS route, it will likely take you to the road below the abbey. Once you reach that point, look for a small café jutting out into the “V” where the road forks, and the stairs will be to the right of the café. There is also a sign posted that says “Nonnbergstiege” (Nonnberg stairs). See https://www.salzburg.info/en/sights/churches-cemeteries/stift-nonnberg for more information.

Walking up to Nonnberg Abbey

View from the Abbey down over Salzburg

Entrance to the Abbey and the church

Interior of the Abbey without lights on

The altar with the lights turned on

Another view from the Abbey

Deco Art Vintage Jewelry. Five minutes from the wide plaza (Residenzplatz) by the Salzburg Cathedral is an adjoining square that features several small eateries and shops next to the Kollegienkirche ( called the “white church” for its bright white interior). I stumbled upon a marvelous shop that specializes in costume jewelry from the 1920s to 1960s, and the very knowledgeable proprietor has an extensive collection of original magazines and catalogues that help identify and date the pieces she sells. Well worth the stop if you love authentic costume jewelry! Visit http://www.deco-art.at/html/english.html for all the goodies and a detailed map to help you find it.

Climbing up to the Kapuziner Monastery across the river from the Altstadt will give you a totally different view of Salzburg than the one from the fortress. I went at dawn Sunday morning, entering the archway off Linzergasse and following the winding sidewalk and stairs to the top. There are life-sized scenes from the life of Christ all the way up in purpose-built stone niches, all beautifully carved and detailed. At the very top, you reach the church, which is starkly simple in its design. This was done on purpose, as one ruling bishop didn’t believe the steeple of this chapel should “compete” with the one on the grand cathedral in the DomQuartier! The church was unlit except for a single alcove, and there was no early morning singing, so I wound back down along the wall, taking pictures of the lovely view. See https://www.salzburg.info/en/sights/churches-cemeteries/kapuzinerkloster for details.

Archway off Linzergasse that leads to the Kapuzinkloister

Starting the walk up... — Starting the walk up…

One of the many life-sized scenes on the way to the top…

Gateway to Kapuzinkloister — Next to this gateway is a memorial to a writer who fled from the Nazis when they occupied Austria.

The final set of stairs up to the monastery

Early morning view over Salzburg — Early morning view over the city…

Because of the Mozart connection, there are a lot of musical events and concerts in Salzburg. Unfortunately, many of them come with a hefty price tag for tourists and include musicians in 18th-century costumes that can cause a historical sewing enthusiast to shudder. I stumbled across a sign for a Saturday evening concert in the beautiful Holy Trinity Church at Makartplatz, where Mozart used to practice organ. The tickets ranged from €15-25, and only 120 were available due to the compact size of the church. Several of us decided to attend, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. In addition to familiar organ pieces by Mozart and Haydn and religious songs performed by two amazing sopranos, there was Andrew Lloyd Weber’s “Pie Jesu” and the rousing Toccata and Fugue by Bach that was my late father’s favorite organ piece. The church itself is a beautiful example of Baroque architecture and art that was a feast for the eyes. Concerts take place every Saturday from April through mid-December at 6:30pm. Click HERE for ticket info.

Following Sisi to Bad Ischl

We boarded our private coach Saturday morning for the one-hour trip to the charming spa town of Bad Ischl, which is where Emperor Franz Joseph I expanded his hunting lodge to become a comfortable retreat for Empress Elisabeth and their young family. He extended the wings to form an “E” shape in tribute to his wife, then decorated his personal rooms with paintings and photographs of her.

Aunt Sophie, Sisi′s future mother-in-law

If you are not familiar with the tragic story of Sisi, it reads like a fairly modern story of celebrity turned sour and a bitter struggle for autonomy against the stifling rules of the Austrian court. The 22-year-old emperor was supposed to marry Sisi’s older sister, Helene, but when they were brought together to formalize their engagement, 15-year-old Sisi tagged along, hanging back shyly when it was time to meet her royal relatives (the emperor was her first cousin). The moment Franz Joseph laid eyes on Sisi, he declared he wanted her and would not marry Helene. His mother, Sophie, objected strongly. The girls’ parents had brought up Helene to step into the role of empress. They had educated her carefully and taught her all the ins and outs of court etiquette and protocol. She knew how to stand, talk, dance, and interact with important personages at court. Sisi, on the other hand, had been allowed to grow up almost completely wild, riding her horses, hiking, and neglecting anything remotely related to the strict Viennese court. This set the stage for the tragedy her life would become.

When Franz Joseph refused to change his mind, Sophie reluctantly gave in, but Sisi’s parents had to embark on a crash-course education for the girl, teaching her all the things Helene already knew and stitching up a trousseau suitable for the future empress. Sisi famously remarked, “I do love the emperor. If only he wasn’t the emperor!” She dreaded the confining life she knew would be hers once she entered the royal court.

The Kaiservilla, seen from the hills above it — The Kaiservilla, seen from the hills above

The Kaiservilla in Bad Ischl contains some of Sisi’s personal effects, including a riding crop, spurs, fans, and jewelry. There is also a reproduction of the gown she wore to the farewell ball her father threw for her shortly before her wedding. Embroidered around the skirt and the stole in Arabic is the phrase, “Oh, Lord, what a beautiful dream.” Sadly, for Sisi, it was only a nightmare. After a few minutes in the crowded ballroom, being introduced to strangers, she burst into tears and ran from the room. It was just too much for a 16-year-old child of nature to bear. But that was only the beginning of her difficulties. After the wedding, the couple didn’t get to enjoy a private honeymoon. Franz Joseph would not leave his duties as emperor, which he took very seriously, thanks to the rigorous training and controlling nature of his mother. Sisi was left to fend for herself in a court full of people who did not love or support her. Even her ladies in waiting were chosen by her mother-in-law and kept Sophie informed of whatever Sisi said and did. When Sisi complained to her husband, he sympathized with her but did nothing, because he did not want to cross his mother.

Sisi's ballgown, embroidered with Arabic — Photo of Sisi’s ballgown, embroidered with Arabic (official palaces photo)

Visiting Empress Sisi's Tea House — Visiting Empress Sisi’s Tea House

However, Franz Joseph did what he could to placate his young wife, including building her a “Marble Hall” up the hill from the Kaiservilla—a lovely house where she could take tea with an intimate circle of ladies she began to draw around her in spite of her mother-in-law. We visited the “tea house,” which is really quite grand and now houses a photography museum. There were many photographs of the empress as a young girl and, later, as the regal beauty she became. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed in the Kaiservilla, so I can’t show you the salon where Sisi practiced fencing, the emperor’s office, or his surprisingly spartan bedroom with its very plain furnishings. However, you can get a feel for its lush setting in the thickly forested hills.

Beautiful wilfdlowers grow throughout the grounds of the Kaiservilla, just as they have since Sisi’s day.

Sisi spent hours hiking up into those mountains behind the Marble cottage.

Cathy Hay at the Kaiservilla — Cathy Hay on the steps of the Kaiservilla

Dapper tailor — This dapper fellow worked for a local atelier and seems to have enjoyed posing. There were a lot of photos of him!

Autographed photo of a famous Austrian actress

That facial expression! An unnamed young lady from the photography exhibit.

Franz Joseph spent almost every birthday in the Kaiservilla, and Sisi spent long hours hiking up the hills into the forest, exhausting her less hardy ladies in waiting. Even today, the emperor’s birthday is still a huge celebration in Bad Ischl. Every August there are military parades in 19th-century uniforms, costumed balls, and a musical evening in the beautiful St Nikolaus church.

If you get a chance to visit Bad Ischl, the Kaiservilla is worth the stop, although tours are only given in German (there’s an English handout you can read as you walk from room to room). With so many international visitors coming yearly to Bad Ischl for the music festivals and more, it is quite surprising that the Kaiservilla doesn’t have audio guides in multiple languages (as the Hofburg does) and that it doesn’t allow groups to bring their own guide or translator. There is also a long film in German without subtitles that is shown on a loop in the photography museum. It was made in the 1990s and contains a lot of information about Franz Joseph, Sisi, and their family. But, again, if you don’t speak and understand German, you will be at a loss to follow it without a willing translator. I did my best for our group with my college German, but subtitles would have been a great help!

All the pastries and delicacies at Zauner!

Our group spent the rest of the afternoon walking the streets of town by the river, checking out the stalls of the antiques dealers, and sampling traditional Austrian cakes and rich hot chocolate in the Zauner Café. And, yes, we did more window shopping in Tracht shops, admiring what I believe is the finest work in Austria. I fell in love with a black dirndl and its accessories. The entire ensemble would have set me back about $1500, so I left it with a sigh. However, the work is well worth the price, as it represents an incredible investment of time and skill—the very best aspects of slow fashion. It was amazing to see all of the shops doing brisk business, and it was pure delight to walk down the street and see so many people of all ages proudly wearing their national dress.

Complete with ruffled petticoat--sigh! — Complete with ruffled petticoat–sigh!

The main road through town with bunting hanging as a festive welcome

Our coach took us back to Salzburg at 4pm, just as a light drizzle began to fall. The rain had, thankfully, held off until we finished all our wanderings! We spent the evening packing up for our train journey to Vienna on Sunday and did a farewell walk to fetch supper in the Altstadt before turning in for the night. I took an early morning jaunt on Sunday that I will tell you about in my “Secret Salzburg” post next!

Ah, Salzburg!

Whatever the season, Austria is always wonderful. I traveled here in 2016 for two weeks with my second son as we sang our way through music competitions with our South African choir. We both fell in love with the countryside, the people, the culture, and the food. Finding a historical costume connection was not difficult, as Empress Elisabeth (“Sisi”) was a noted 19th-century royal beauty with a taste for clothes from couturiers like Worth, and many of her gowns and personal effects survive and are on display in various collections.

Prior to my travels in Austria, I had known a little about Sisi’s famous portraits, her gowns, and her hatred of court life, but I really only had a surface knowledge based upon the trio of films starring Romy Schneider, which were made in the 1950s. While in Vienna, I made a point to visit both Schönbrunn and the Hofburg (which contains the “Sisi” Museum), and I bought an in-depth biography, The Reluctant Empress by Brigitte Hamann and Ruth Hein. I devoured that before we flew home to Cape Town, and I knew I had to bring a tour group to Austria in the future. Cathy Hay was game to come along for our first tour on the continent, and I planned our cities to include the ones with a clear connection to Empress Elisabeth, plus Paris (more on that in future posts!).

Mozart's birthplace — Mozart’s birthplace in the heart of Salzburg

I decided to kick off the tour in Salzburg, because it is a comfortable, walking-friendly city that moves at a slower pace than Vienna. It would give us all a chance to recover from the worst of the jet lag and see some things without feeling rushed. Salzburg’s place in the Habsburg Empire came after the defeat of Napoleon (in 1816, to be precise, after the Duke of Wellington and other European delegates met to settle terms at the Congress of Vienna), but it has a rich history as an ecclesiastical hub, giving it the nickname “The Rome of the North.” Ruled by prince-bishops, Salzburg became home to an enormous collection of fine art, splendid architecture, and, of course, excellent music. Mozart was born in the Altstadt, practiced organ in Trinity Church at Makartplatz, and wowed his patrons with his precocious talent. Today that means you see a lot of kitchsy marketing ploys using his name, but it is his musical legacy that still strongly shapes this city with its many concert venues and music festivals.

Because of its ecclesiastical heritage, there are incredibly fine works of art in the churches, and there is a long history of high-born ladies donating their court dresses and trains to be remade into capes and robes for bishops and priests. More on those in a later post.

Detail from a 1795 painting of Pope Pius's visit to Salzburg — Detail from a 1795 painting of Pope Pius’s visit to Salzburg, showing the ladies’ gowns.

Our tour group arrived late in the afternoon on Thursday the 5th of September to overcast skies. We had the evening to settle in and get some supper, so I took my daughter to walk around and see the Mirabell Palace (famous as a location in “The Sound of Music”), the DomQuartier, St. Peter’s churchyard with its very early catacombs carved into the cliff face, and the winding streets of the beautiful Altstadt. After a couple of hours, it began to drizzle, and, by the time we got back to our hotel, it was pouring. We did our best to dry out and got to sleep just as the jet lag kicked in. I checked the weather report for the next day and noted an 80% chance of rain, but I didn’t worry. We have always been blessed with amazing weather on our trips, and I had high hopes for this one. After temperatures topping 100 in Alabama, the cool, fresh air of Austria was a reprieve! (Click on any image in the gallery below to open the full-sized slideshow.)

Mirabell Palace

Roses at Mirabell

Hanging flowers everywhere!

St. Peter’s churchyard

Salzburg is famous for its medieval signs.

Salzburg Cathedral from the organ loft — Salzburg Cathedral viewed from the organ loft

After a delightful Austrian breakfast in our hotel the next morning, we all set off for a walking tour of the city, taking in the architecture along the way. I pointed out how many of the houses had been rebuilt on their same foundations after fires in the 16th century, preserving the meandering medieval streets with their quirky corners and winding ways. Once we reached the DomQuartier, I talked about the influence of the Roman Catholic Church on art, music, and even fashion, pointing out the elaborate garments on the statues around the cathedral. I always tell group members that churches are art galleries and give you the chance to take in some incredibly beautiful work–and often at no cost. The Salzburg Cathedral is no exception, containing stunning Baroque paintings and sculptures. (Interestingly, the paintings inside the dome and around the ceilings are similar in tone and color to those in St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. It is fascinating that both churches were rebuilt after devastating fires and both suffered similar bomb damage in WW2.)

Looking down at the cathedral from the museum

The beautifully restored dome — The dome in Salzburg Cathedral

After our walk around the DomQuartier, we did some serious window shopping along the main thoroughfare that winds past Mozart’s Geburtshaus, because traditional Austrian clothing has for centuries held onto “slow fashion” in the very best sense of that phrase. I have always had a love for dirndls and Tracht (traditional regional dress), but don’t imagine the cheap polyester knockoffs that we find in the States during Oktoberfest. Real Austrian fashion for both men and women involves incredibly detailed work with seams and stitchery that immediately remind one of 18th-century techniques. And Austrians really do wear dirndls, lederhosen, finely tailored jackets, and exquisite accessories on a regular basis. We spent quite some time marveling at bound buttonholes, fine whitework embroidery, and tailoring techniques that have, sadly, vanished in mass-produced, ready-to-wear clothing. What’s most amazing is that each Tracht shop has its own in-house tailors who can alter any garment to fit perfectly within hours or days, and they will guarantee their work for years, as I would find out later in Vienna.

After turning group members loose to explore a bit on their own, my daughter and I walked the steep trail up to the Hohensalzburg Fortress to tour the castle and its museum. The view from the top is fabulous, with the richly green Austrian countryside spreading out all around, dotted with lovely homes and steeples. The fortress museum contains many of its original 16th-century furnishings, armor, musical instruments, and military uniforms. There’s also a fun marionette museum tucked into one side, where you can see the intricate costumes up close. After riding the funicular railway back down, we toured the DomQuartier Museum, taking in some fantastic paintings by Dutch masters (who had such an eye for fabric and detailed trimming!).

Fountain at the entrance to the DomQuartier Museum

Detail of lace on a portrait — Detail of the lace on the portrait

candlelight painting from the DomQuartier — Candlelit family scene

Detail from a painting in the DomQuartier Museum–note the fabric!

After supper, the group gathered in the tea room of our hotel for Show and Tell with vintage and antique garments and accessories, plus gorgeous reproductions of Edwardian underthings by Cathy Hay. Being able to handle original pieces is always an important part of our tours, as it provides an opportunity to see how garments were constructed and trimmed…and often how they were altered to fit later styles or to repair damage. I brought along my prized ca. 1904 tea gown with its extensive lace insertion and embroidery, plus a ca. 1908 girl’s dress and several Victorian and Edwardian underthings. Cathy had a collection of embroidery floss samples wrapped in letters from an atelier, requesting samples of various items like buttons, ribbons, and lace for customers. Reading one of the letters was a fascinating glimpse into the past. After an evening centered around our shared passion for historical sewing, we retired for the night. Next time, Bad Ischl!

Cathy shows her beautiful late Victorian undergarments

Detail of the lace on Cathys drawers. — Detail of the lace on Cathy′s drawers.

Beautiful lace collar brought by a group member

Cathy also got a beautiful Austrian coat!

Our hearts are with you, Paris…

I am sure you have all seen the terrible news from France today. When my husband told me Notre Dame was on fire this morning, I couldn’t process what he was saying. He had to show me the live stream from CBS, and I just sat down, too stunned to talk. What a terrible loss for the entire world–850 years of history in flames.

The original beams used to create the roof frame were carved from 300-400-year-old trees when they were cut in the 12th century. So, truly, this is over 1200 years of history that burned today. My husband’s poignant comment was, “What are we building today that anyone would weep to lose in 800 years?”

I am so glad to see people from around the world pledging to raise funds to rebuild the majestic cathedral. It will be all the more moving to visit Paris in September and celebrate the history and art that make it such a treasured city.

Vive Notre Dame de Paris,

A brand new tour for 2019!

If you’re on my Early Bird list or on Cathy Hay’s eList, then you’ve already gotten the news and may have already booked a slot (whee!), but if you’re just tuning in, I’ve got a brand spanking new tour lined up for September 2019, and I am super excited about it!

Since 2009, I’ve been taking groups to England to study historical fashion, visit stately homes, enjoy afternoon tea, and attend the opening weekend of the fabulous Jane Austen Festival in Bath. For 2019, I decided it was about time to dip into Continental Europe and go to some of my favorite places in Austria, then add on Paris and Versailles as the cream on top! Cathy Hay of Foundations Revealed has been a featured guest speaker on many of my tours, and next year she steps into her role of co-host, bringing along her knowledge of Paris and its delights. Together we are going to lead you through the beauties of Salzburg, Bad Ischl, Vienna, Paris, and Versailles!

Schönbrunn Palace, Vienna, home to the young Marie Antoinette and later to Empress Sisi.

The 2019 tour will focus on the fabulous 19th-century fashions of Empress Elisabeth as we explore her private hunting lodge in Bad Ischl and the jaw-dropping Schönbrunn Palace, both of which contain many of her original garments, portraits, plus reproductions of her most famous gowns (including one made by Worth). In Paris, our focus will include both 18th-century fashion and the iconic silhouette that Dior launched in 1947 with his “New Look.” We will enjoy a costumed outing to the beautiful Vaux-le-Vicomte chateau, which was the direct inspiration for Versailles. Two very special guests will teach historical costuming workshops, giving particular attention to the tailoring and techniques so beloved in the 18th and early 19th centuries.

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Our group will enjoy walking tours in each city we visit, and you will have ample free time to explore on your own as well.

And what about Bath? We definitely do not want to leave out our favorite event, so there is an optional Bath extension for the opening weekend of the Jane Austen Festival, complete with a two-night stay in our favorite hotel in the heart of historic Bath, a ticket to the opening event at St. Swithin’s Church, a ticket for the Grand Regency Promenade through the city (on a brand-new route!), and a ticket for the ball and supper to be held in the Assembly Rooms Saturday evening!

As of November 19, we have only six slots remaining out of 15 available. If you would like to join us, please drop me a line by clicking Contact in the menu. If you have been waiting to visit Europe, now is the time to stop hesitating and come along! As Cathy Hay wrote, “You know that once in a lifetime costume trip across Europe that you’re always dreaming about? The one with the fashion museums, the dressing up, the afternoon teas in quirky places, the romantic gardens that make you feel as though you’re in a costume movie… Isn’t it time you made that glorious adventure happen?”

Join us! We would love to have you.

We’ll be taking a breather this year and next…

Hello, patient readers!

It has been a long time since I’ve caught up the blog. Six months have already passed since the 2016 tour, and I still haven’t posted about that wonderful trip or shared photos outside of social media. My (I hope very good) excuse is that I’m expecting a baby this month, and I was deep in the worst of the morning sickness right after that trip. 😉 Once I came out of that fog, I dived back into pattern work and have been at it steadily since (new pattern coming in May if all goes as planned!).

I promise to share our wonderful week together as soon as I’ve uploaded photos and welcomed a new little one into the world. We did have a marvelous group (I truly believe we have the best tour group members!), and we thoroughly enjoyed our time exploring Cheshire, Yorkshire, Nottingham, Haworth, Warwick, and Bath.

One of our costumed lovelies framed in a nook at Newstead Abbey

And now for news about future tours. We are on hiatus this year (2017) and next for a variety of reasons, including a new baby and various scheduling/travel conflicts amongst the group leaders. We will be working on a bang-up new tour for 2019, and I’ll be sharing as plans come together. Taking a two-year break is bittersweet (we do love our trips!), but I know we’ll come back together with something really special in 2019. We always love to receive your suggestions and requests, so feel free to drop a line if you have any wish list items. We’ve got some new things we’d like to do as well, but, as always, we hope to include the favorites that never change from year to year, like ending at the Jane Austen Festival in Bath!

Thanks again for your patience, and I hope to be in touch again soon!

New Stops on the 2016 Tour!

Due to one of our museum collections going “offline” for a season of restoration and another temporary closure, we have swapped this year’s itinerary around a little bit and added three new destinations!

First, we will travel to Macclesfield in Cheshire to see the Silk Museum, which includes a working mill from the Victorian Era. After our guided tour, we will depart for Tabley House, one of the finest Palladian mansions in England with a stunning collection of 18th-century portraiture. (If you enjoyed the Jeremy Brett “Sherlock Holmes” TV series, you will probably recognize Tabley House as one of the locations used in filming!) We’ll enjoy luncheon together in the tea room and take part in a private tour before departing via train for York.

Next, because the Bowes Museum has closed its private store to study groups while a special display is in the main part of the museum, we are now going to enjoy the delights of Newstead Abbey, which boasts the Nottingham historical costume collection from the mid-16th century forward. Our group will have private access to the collection and the opportunity to study specific garments up close. We’ll close our visit with a group luncheon in this stunning stately home with its exquisite gardens.

We do still have two slots open for this year’s tour, so if you’d like to jump in before we close the group on May 31st, please contact me at the link above.

2016 Tour — filled from priority list..!

We opened the new tour for bookings to our priority list in November and quickly filled all 18 slots. However, if you are interested in jumping on board in case of drop-outs, please feel free to contact me. It seems we inevitably have drop-outs each year, so there may be a chance to join us. The full itinerary is HERE, and it’s a beaut!

Warmly,
Jennie

Day Six: Last Morning in Bath

I awoke Sunday early, in spite of my determination to sleep in after the ball. Somehow the body clock was convinced I must get up. Oh, well. I packed up and went down to breakfast, then took a last stroll around the Abbey yard and surrounding streets. I do love Bath. It never grows old, and I always look forward to returning!

Looking down the cobbled street from our hotel... — Looking down the cobbled street from our hotel…

My favorite quiet square on Sunday morning... — My favorite quiet square on Sunday morning…

Bath Abbey, peeking over the roofline of the Roman Baths.

Front entrance to the Pump Room and Roman Baths.

And back around full circle to my favorite square with its central tree... — And back around full circle to my favorite square with its central tree…

Wonderful hanging baskets of flowers are throughout the city of Bath.

It was a lovely little farewell walk. I joined Suzi and Keith back at the hotel, and we drove out of the city toward London a short time later, arriving in time for a late lunch and a quick stroll up the street so I could find an extra bag for all the cargo I seemed to have collected along the way (::cough::).

Suzi and I spent the afternoon talking about the 2016 tour and fitting various pieces of the itinerary puzzle together. Wonderful fun, and we metaphorically rubbed our hands together in glee over all the lovely things that we will have on tap for next year’s group! Next time I post, it will be to share the 2016 tour details after the priority list has gotten first dibs on slots. We will be able to take 18 people max, so if you are interested in joining us, please drop a line through the contact form. Slots will go on a first-come, first-served basis once we open up!

Days Four & Five: “I am for Bath!”

Panoramic photo of the Regency-attired crowd in the Parade Gardens after the Promenade

We headed out of London Friday morning, and I honestly don’t know how Keith does it. The twists and turns and traffic getting out of the city made my head swim, and I doubt I could ever drive it! Glad to have a capable chauffeur at the wheel. It wasn’t too long before the countryside opened up and we were on our way through gently rolling hills. I enjoyed the scenery for a while but then got back to reading a book I’d picked up in York. That made the miles speed along even faster, and we were pulling into the beautiful, golden city of Bath before I knew it. As seems to be the case each year, there were four or five events scheduled for the same weekend, so there was a bit of traffic snarled up in the center, but Keith navigated through it and landed us at the Abbey Hotel, where we’ve stayed with our tour group several times over the years. After stowing my bags and hanging up my gowns, I stepped out for a few minutes to snap some pictures under a cloudy sky. The weather looked dreary, with threats of thunderstorms blowing in from Ireland. I sent up a silent prayer for sunshine on the morrow, as we have always been blessed with lovely weather each year and never been drenched yet on the Promenade!

After my quick circular walk, I came back through the Pump Room’s colonnade into the Abbey yard and snapped this shot of the Abbey and Pump Room together. The sun was trying to get through the layer of cloud, but it never really made it through on Friday.

I walked back up to my room and pulled out the rest of my sewing (still hadn’t finished my ballgown!) and called to ask housekeeping for an ironing board and iron. Unpacking my sewing kit, I pinned the inside lining of the silk petticoat for my ballgown, then heard a knock at my door. Suzi had come up to keep me company while I sewed and offered to hem the skirt of the ballgown for me, which was music to my ears! We spent a lovely couple of hours chatting, planning the 2016 tour, and stitching away. When the iron and ironing board finally came, I went into the bathroom to fill the iron’s reservoir from the tap, only to discover that my bathroom had flooded, apparently from a burst pipe in the room overhead. A call to the front desk swiftly brought a work crew around, along with the manager offering profuse apologies for the deluge! Turns out the room overhead was being renovated, and one of the pipes wasn’t properly sealed. Suzi and I sat bemused while a steady stream of workers set things to rights as we continued our own work.

At last it was time to put away the sewing for the day and get a bite to eat. Cathy Hay had arrived and joined us, and we sat in the hotel lounge for supper. Two more of Suzi’s friends arrived (an amazing couple who teach historical dance), plus a prior tour group alumna and her daughter. We had a lovely visit, then retired for the evening. Saturday would be a jam-packed day, and we needed our beauty sleep!

I got up early Saturday and began dressing for the Promenade, very glad that I’d chosen to make a gown that didn’t fasten up the back, since I had no one to help me! I managed to get ready except for my cap, bonnet, and gloves before going downstairs to eat breakfast. Suzi and Keith were already there, as were other familiar faces, all excited about the day ahead. I glanced out the windows, dismayed to see rain coming down after I’d woken to sunshine. But I hoped for the best and got into the rest of my outfit after the meal, then joined Cathy for the walk up to the Assembly Rooms. The morning downpour had left the sidewalks slick, and I immediately realized my authentic Regency boots were just a bit too authentic–no rubber soles to keep me from sliding! After two near disastrous slip-ups, I knew there was no way I’d make it through the morning without something to help my feet grip the slippery pavement. The first shoe shop on Milsom Street had nothing, so Cathy helped me gingerly make my way into Boots, where I found non-slip stick-ons meant to go inside the backs of shoes. Well, if I could get them to stick to the soles, I knew they’d help, so I bought them, and Cathy helped me wipe off the wet soles of the boots and attach the stick-ons. Success! No more slipping. We managed to get to the Assembly Rooms in plenty of time, and, since the rain had truly stopped, we joined the gathering throng of costumed participants, waiting for the start of the Promenade.

Gathering for the Promenade at the Assembly Rooms — A growing crowd at the Assembly Rooms…

Soldiers! — “A whole campful of soldiers!” (Well, not quite, but a goodly number!)

So many ladies in costume, ready for their stroll through Bath! — More pretty frocks!

Posing with the famous Mr Salter of the Jane Austen Centre in Bath--the most photographed man in England! — I posed with the famous Mr Salter of the Jane Austen Centre–the most photographed man in England!

Two lovely French ladies. I admired the military spencer on the left so much that she graciously allowed me to take a photo. — Two lovely Austrian ladies. I admired the military spencer on the left so much that she graciously allowed me to take a photo. You can see their photos at http://www.janeausten.at/!

Amazing outfits at the Jane Austen Festival Promenade. — I love the uniform and the military flair of the lady’s outfit to match. Absolutely striking!

Into the Assembly Rooms we go... — We all stepped into the Assembly Rooms to wait until the start of the Promenade.

We had arrived so early that we had half an hour to kill, so we chatted with other members of our little group as they arrived and admired many of the costumes walking past. We were especially delighted and amazed at the large number of gents at this year’s Promenade–far more than we remembered seeing ever before. A week later, the Jane Austen Centre would remark on the goodly number of gentlemen as well. This is a trend we hope will continue, as it is great to see a better balance of men and women…especially when it means incredible tailoring and lots of handiwork to admire! While I was waiting, a gent walked up and asked if I was Jennie? I answered in the affirmative, and he motioned another lady forward before telling me that he had me to thank for getting him into historical costuming. He told me that he had bought one of my patterns several years before to make a gown for his sister (the lady accompanying him), and that had drawn him into sewing for himself as well. He now makes several outfits each year so that he and his sister can participate in events like the Jane Austen Festival. I was, of course, delighted! It is incredibly satisfying to hear from people who have been encouraged to sew by using my patterns; his comments quite made my day!

At last we were called to order by the leader of the Promenade and ushered out of doors to form a somewhat orderly line. And then we were off, downhill, uphill, and all around the streets of Bath!

Can't help but admire the back of my friends' outfits! — I walked behind Susan, Constance, and Cathy, admiring their lovely costumes…

Walking down Milsom Street... — Walking down Milsom Street…

After winding around and around, we finally reached the Parade Gardens below Bath Abbey. As you can see, we got the splendid weather we asked for!

Lovely Regency couple at the Promenade, 2015 — Lovely Regency couple at the Promenade. Note that she’s put her cell phone into her basket. We all come up with ways to hide our technology!

More lovely outfits... — More lovely outfits…

We loved having this dapper couple in our group. Such fabulous outfits!

Another military-style Spencer, this one made to match the gent's uniform! — Another military-style Spencer, this one made to match the gent’s uniform!

And that wonderful Spencer from the back--showing a miniature "tailed" peplum and tassels. Beautiful! — And that wonderful Spencer from the back–showing a miniature “tailed” peplum and tassels. Beautiful!

A Regency family, complete with period push-chair!

I so admired the gentleman's outfit that I had to snap a picture of him with his beautifully attired friend. Marvelous! — I so admired the gentleman’s outfit that I had to snap a picture of him with his beautifully attired friend. Marvelous!

A back view of that stunning coat. I wish I could show you how it swirled when he turned!

Gorgeous flowers in the Parade Gardens, Bath — Gorgeous flowers in the Parade Gardens.

Our group members again, looking absolutely perfect in the setting.

Had to get a snap of the back of Constance's lovely outfit. — Had to get a snap of the back of Constance’s lovely outfit.

After milling about, enjoying the weather and the gorgeous costumes, we walked together to Tilley’s, which is just down the alleyway from our hotel. We have made it a tradition to eat lunch there each year after the Promenade. (And a little word to the wise: While the much-hyped Sally Lunn’s next door is the oldest restaurant in Bath and jam-packed with history, you will always find a long queue there. I’m here to tell you that Tilley’s serves delicious food at a good price and rarely has a long wait. Well worth the visit!) Lunch stretched till 2:30 as we enjoyed the good food and wonderful company, and then those of us going to the ball that evening made a mad dash for the dance workshop back up at the Assembly Rooms! An hour of dancing reacquainted us with the steps, and then we hurried back to the hotel to sew like mad between 4:30 and 6:30 to get ready for the evening’s festivities.

Sewing by the window... — Me, catching up on last-minute sewing in a mad rush to finish my ballgown (I didn’t manage to get the lace on the sleeves or the ruffle on the crossover bodice…sigh.)

My friend, Frances, who has been on several tours with us, always amazes me with what she brings to Bath. This time took the cake. She had brought all her Regency gowns and accessories and generously helped complete our outfits with ribbons, lace, and reticules! I had to be satisfied with an unfinished ballgown at the end; we just ran out of time and had to quickly make our way back up to the Assembly Rooms. So no photo of my gown this year. I will wait until it is finished and looking as fine as it should! I did, however, take lots of pictures at the ball and caught some of the dancing on video. Enjoy!

Entering the ballroom with all the other costumed participants... — Entering the ballroom with all the other costumed participants…

The lady on the left always makes the most exquisite gowns each year. This one was jaw-dropping!

A beautiful gown with a gorgeous scarlet shawl... — A beautiful silk gown with a gorgeous scarlet shawl…

Keith and Suzi, ready for our delicious three-course supper at the ball!

There were so many friends and gents that we never lacked for partners at this ball, and I actually had to beg to sit out a couple of times, as my feet were killing me. Yep, that hasty choice of too-small ballet flats did come back to haunt me–not to mention breaking one of my cardinal rules of travel, which is never to wear shoes you haven’t previously broken in! Ouch. Oh, well. We did all have a marvelous time, and I have to give a hearty round of applause to Chris Seals of Farthingale, who organizes the ball each year. It was even better this year than the one we attended in 2013, including the delicious food promptly served and the beautiful setting. Bravo!

We all stuck it out until the clock struck midnight, then slowly made our way back to the hotel on our weary feet. All in all, an incredibly gorgeous and fun Saturday at the Jane Austen Festival. Next time I’ll wrap up with some last photos from my walk on Sunday morning before we left Bath for London. It was over all too soon, and I can hardly wait for the tour in 2016!