Historical Fashion Tours with Sense & Sensibility

Day Three: Morning in York, then Back to London

When I woke up early Thursday, glorious sunshine was already showing outside my window, so I got up and dressed quickly, determined to catch a song service at the Minster. How different the great cathedral looked against a bright blue sky!

As before, the door was open, but no one was inside, so I made my way down the nave, hoping to catch someone who could tell me where the song service could be heard. No luck, but I did finally discover a small group of people in a side chapel to the right of the Choir, gathering for morning prayers. As the service had already started, I slipped into the back and just listened. It was touching to hear the mixture of historical responses from the Book of Common Prayer mixed with the leader’s own petitions for those suffering during the present refugee crisis and for other modern-day concerns. I stayed until the end, then sat in the quiet of the empty cathedral as before, just taking in the peace before setting off for my last morning on foot in York.

Inside York Minster — Looking up from my bench near the Choir…

The Rose Window, York Minster — The famous Rose Window with sun streaming through it and the stained glass windows below.

Suzi had told me I must visit Duttons for Buttons, so I made my way through Stonegate and the Shambles and by Whip-ma-Whop-ma-Gate, enjoying the view of the church there in the bright sunlight:

Duttons for Buttons is an absolutely darling little shop chock-a-block with (of course) buttons of every description, plus embroidery kits, floss, ribbons, and more. I picked up new buttons for a much-loved coat and a needlework kit for one of my daughters. This shop is a treat for the sewing enthusiast and will definitely be on my must-visit list for 2016!

Next, I made my way toward the center of town, taking pictures of lovely churches and shops as I went.

York Minster seen through the streets of York — York Minster is easy to spot from many places in town.

Naturally, I had to stop in at the Hat Shop and just ogle all the gorgeous things on display!

The church below has a most unusual clock out front with a little 18th-century gent perched on top. I was so intrigued that I did a web search when I got back home and found out the little man is an admiral of the navy who was placed by the clockmaker in the 1770s. He used to revolve to face the sun at all times, but he was damaged at some point in the 19th century and stopped moving. He was also burnt badly during a bombing raid in 1942 and was restored and replaced in 1966. You can read his full history at this link.

St Martin Church, York — St Martin Church

Sun-drenched church in York — Another sun-drenched church near St Helens Square

Mr Simm's Olde Sweet Shoppe, York — An adorably Dickensian sweet shop!

Lady Peckett's Yard, York — Lady Peckett’s Yard is a little “Snickleway” off a main street. I nearly walked right by it but caught the half-timbered building out of the corner of my eye. Wonderful!

Lovely church tower in York — I got turned around at one point while looking for the Yorvick Viking Centre, but I stumbled upon another pretty church in the process!

Looking into a private garden, York — A beautiful private garden walk near the Viking Centre.

York Minster playing hide and seek by Deangate.

St William's College, York — St William’s College, built in 1465, is the oldest surviving medieval hall in York. It fell into disrepair after being turned into apartments but was, thankfully, rescued and restored in the 1980s.

Inside the courtyard door at St William's College, York — Looking through the main entrance of St William’s College.

Half-timbered house in York — Another lovely half-timbered house in York.

I finally came full circle after roaming about York’s streets for a couple of hours, taking one last farewell look at the Minster before heading to the hotel for breakfast and check-out. What an utterly delightful visit! I simply cannot wait to come back and share this beautiful city with my group in 2016!

The Monkbar Gate, York — One last look at the Monkbar Gate, which was just opposite our hotel.

We hit the road at 10:15am, stopping only for a brief lunch before arriving in London around 3:30pm. Because so much of the afternoon was still before me (and because I hate wasting any opportunity to see something “new” in London!), I grabbed my Oyster card and boarded a bus for Trafalgar Square. I’ve been into the National Portrait Gallery a few times, but I had never visited the National Gallery that faces the square, so I decided to do so before closing time. The bus actually didn’t complete its route but dumped all passengers out at the middle of the Strand, so I walked down in the sunshine, enjoying the bustle of a London afternoon and taking in the sights. As I crossed the street from Charing Cross, I had to snap a picture of St Martin-in-the-Fields, which is one of my favorite churches in the city:

The National Gallery, London — The National Gallery

Trafalgar Square was absolutely thronged with people, but I made my way through and up the stairs of the National Gallery, stopping to take a picture of the square itself:

The interior of the National Gallery is absolutely stunning–a truly wonderful setting for the works of art inside:

I wandered around the galleries, snapping pictures of my favorite paintings.

The Tailor by Moroni (I have always loved this painting but didn’t realize it was in the National Gallery!)

Gainsborough's portrait of his daughters (one of many), National Gallery, London — Gainsborough’s portrait of his daughters (one of many). The youngest daughter is reaching out for a butterfly, a symbol of fleeting childhood.

The Magdalen Reading by van der Weyden (I have always loved artwork that portrays women reading!)

After this enjoyable foray into the world of fine art, I popped back out into the square and hopped a Number 12 bus to Oxford Circus, determined to find a pair of ballet flats to wear to the ball in Bath. I went in and out of several shoe shops without success before finding a pair of slip-on shoes with elastic in the heels at Top Shop. They didn’t have my size, but I thought I could stand wearing shoes a tad snug for one night. Mistake. More about that later!

When I finished my shopping, I walked back to Regent Street and headed down toward Piccadilly to find another Number 12, which would take me all the way back to Suzi’s place. I had to snap Liberty of London’s iconic storefront as I passed by, and I stepped in to take a look around, only to find a huge fashion event was in full swing (Vogue’s Fashion Night Out).

With the sun beginning to sink, I finally boarded my bus and enjoyed the sights all the way home. Just as an aside here, there was a time when I would have taken the tube every time and skipped the buses. After getting ridiculously turned around (TWICE) on buses in 2007, I had written off this form of transport as hopelessly confusing. The tube is much easier to figure out, so I stuck with it for years. But I’m happy to say that, taking Suzi’s advice, I’ve learned the bus system (for at least a good portion of the city I usually visit), and I really enjoy seeing everything as I go. It’s also very convenient that the buses that travel from Suzi’s bus stop allow me to go quite directly to most of the places I enjoy revisiting!

Passing by Trafalgar Square at dusk–the view from my perch in the double-decker bus.

Big Ben at Dusk — Rounding the Houses of Parliament. I cannot believe I managed to get this shot as we swung around the corner from Whitehall!

After a delicious dinner at Suzi’s, I repacked my bag for Bath. We would leave right after the morning rush and make our way to a full-on weekend of Jane Austen delights! More to come…!

Day Two: A Dose of the Brontes!

Stained Glass Window, York Minster — Looking up to my right just as I walked in…

I woke up early Wednesday, since my body clock was telling me it was 7:30am when it was 6:30. I decided to try the Minster again, as morning matins are listed daily for 7:30am. Walking around to the front entrance at 7:15, I found the door open but saw no one inside. I let myself in and listened, but the only sound that met my ears was that of a vacuum! The cleaning lady was Hoovering away in the main part of the cathedral, but no one else was in sight. I walked around to check the other side chapels, hoping to find the morning service, but not a soul was to be seen, so I just gave myself a little early morning tour, spending an hour reading monuments and taking pictures. It was glorious. The Minster is an incredibly beautiful church, and it is filled with monuments to military men, which I found intriguing. The more plaques and inscriptions I read, the more I began to wonder if Jane Austen had visited York Minster. The names “Wentworth” and “Musgrove” (or “Musgrave”) show up so many times on tomb epitaphs and memorials that I started looking for them on purpose. (And, it turns out, others have noticed the fascinating connection as well, since many other Austen character names pop up in Yorkshire!)

17th-century Wentworth Memorial, York Minster

18th-century Wentworth Memorial, York Minster

Knowing Jane’s fondness for her own naval brothers and their brave exploits, I read a lot of the memorials to naval officers and crews. Alas, they were too dark to photograph clearly, but I did get some good shots of a side chapel dedicated to remembering Yorkshire servicemen from WWI and WWII:

Side Chapel, York Minster — The first side chapel to the right of the altar, which contains memorial books listing the “honoured dead” and lots of plaques covered in red poppies.

Memorial to military dead in York Minster.

I continued working my way around the church without encountering anyone else and soaked in the amazing silence of the great cathedral.

Stained Glass, York Minster — Looking up into the vaulted ceiling with its stained glass windows.

The majesty of York Minster Cathedral — One last look down the nave before I left. Majestic!

York is surrounded by its original medieval wall, which was built alongside the original Roman walls that are nearly 2,000 years old. As I’d walked through the Monkbar on my way to the Minster, I saw that the gate to the wall was locked. I decided to check it again and found it open, so I took a short stroll on a portion of the wall and enjoyed the view.

Stairs up to the city wall in York — Mounting the stairs to the city wall. I love all the worn steps where many feet have trod!

Walking the city wall, York — The narrow walk skirting York.

The city wall, York — Reaching a bend in the wall, I was able to get this shot, aiming back at where I’d entered. Just amazing that this has been here for 1,000 years!

Original Roman walls, York — Looking down at a portion of the original Roman walls. Doesn’t it give you goosebumps?

The Minster peeping over the rooflines (taken from the city wall) — The Minster peeping over the rooflines of York.

I descended the steps and headed back to the hotel to join Suzi and Keith for breakfast, getting a shot of these gorgeous hydrangeas (my favorites!) as I passed:

After a delicious full English breakfast, we packed ourselves into the car and headed north to Haworth, which is about an hour and a half outside of York. As we got closer, I remarked upon the dull grey and even dingy black color of the bricks used to build the houses in the area. When we pulled into Haworth itself, pretty much everything looked bleak and grey. Granted, the sun wasn’t shining, but it was still a striking contrast to the bright red tile roofs and cheerful red brick of York! We pulled up into the Bronte Parsonage Museum’s parking lot and began our tour.

Sign outside the Bronte Parsonage Museum, Haworth — The lovely silhouette sign outside the museum.

We were not allowed to take pictures inside the house, which is a great pity, as so many items originally belonging to the Bronte family are there, including Charlotte’s honeymoon dress, wedding bonnet, lace patterns, sewing box, and more. The “fainting couch” on which Ann died is still in the sitting room, as is much of the original furniture. Because Elizabeth Gaskell and other family friends visited often and knew the Brontes well, they were able to leave detailed descriptions of the house and its contents, even down to the original wallpapers (Gaskell even gave a sample to the V&A for future reference!). My favorite thing in the house was actually the wall of the original nursery, which had been carefully stripped down to the plaster to show drawings that were probably made by the Bronte sisters and their brother, Branwell, when they were writing their “Angria” stories. They hashed out wildly imaginative characters and tales amongst themselves and wrote them down in tiny script in little books they stitched together by hand (many of which are in the museum displays at the back of the house).

Walking through the rooms of the parsonage, I was struck by how minuscule they were and remembered Charlotte’s quote about how much she needed to get away from time to time to avoid feeling stifled: “I can hardly tell you how time gets on here at Haworth…. Life wears away…. I feel as if we were all buried here…” (letter to Ellen Nussey, 1846). Looking outside her sitting room window across the lawn to the cemetery, one finds her choice of “buried” to be apt, indeed:

Cemetery by St Michael All Angels Church, Haworth

It is estimated that there are between 20,000 and 60,000 (!) people buried in this cemetery. It was so overcrowded that Queen Victoria declared it “unsanitary” in the 1860s and ordered it closed. There are no graves after that time period. Every time the Brontes walked across their lawn to the church, they passed by thousands of graves. Rather morbid, but there you are. I think it certainly had to influence their writing!

Cemetery by the Bronte parsonage, Haworth — Looking back up at the parsonage from the cemetery.

Bronte marker at the parsonage in Haworth. — Patrick Bronte outlived his wife and all of his children, every one of whom was carried through the gate marked by this stone and buried in the family vault beneath his church.

Sadly, the original church was demolished in the 1870s and a new one built atop it. The Bronte vault didn’t get “glorified” in the process, as they were still considered fairly local authoresses at that point. The lone marker is the one on the pillar that now stands over the vault covered by the new church:

No mention of any achievements at all–nothing about Branwell’s portraiture or any of the sisters’ books. I couldn’t help but contrast this with Jane Austen’s grave in Winchester, which is well marked and includes a memorial window that was later placed by one of her nephews. A rather poignant ending to such richly imaginative lives.

St Michael All Angels Church, Haworth — St Michael All Angels Church

Stained glass window inside St Michael All Angels Church, Haworth — Stained glass window of the twelve apostles inside the church.

Blue hydrangeas by Cemetery by St Michael All Angels Church, Haworth — Hydrangeas outside the church door.

All in all, it was a thrilling visit for me, as I’ve always wanted to see Haworth (this comes from the gal who has read Jane Eyre every year since she was 16!). Yet I left with a sense of melancholy, wishing the Brontes had lived long enough to see just how far and wide their books would travel and how deeply they would be loved. I think they would have been stunned.

We drove back to York and enjoyed afternoon tea/luncheon at 3pm. Then I spent the next four hours walking all over the city, familiarizing myself with the alleys and “snickleways” (as they are called), poking around in the antique book shop (heaven itself!) near the Minster and making mental notes of all the places I want to show my group in 2016.

The Shambles, York — Walking up The Shambles.

Little Shambles, York — I love all the half-timbered buildings simply reeking with history!

Model shop in York — The model shop near Monkbar. Check out the “Tardis” twirling on fishing line above the train set!

And one last shot for laughs — this one just across from our hotel!

Classic vintage sign in York! — Surely there’s a better way?

We enjoyed a late supper before retiring for the night. We would head back to London around 10am the next day, so I made plans to get up early once again and see if I could catch a song service at the Minster (third time’s the charm?). Next time I’ll share what I found on my last morning in York and what I did with my Thursday afternoon in London!

Introducing York!

I’ve been all over a lot of England since my first visit at age 16, particularly since my husband took me on a surprise anniversary trip in 2006 and I took my own subsequent recce trips or led tours in 2007, plus 2009-2014. I’ve gone from London into Chawton, Winchester, Bath, Lacock Village, Hereford, the Cotswolds, Manchester, and Derbyshire, plus south through Kent to Rochester. I’ve covered much of the Southwest, the Midlands, and the northwest, but I’d never set foot in the Yorkshire Dales or gone farther north than Manchester…until my trip two weeks ago!

Being introduced to a new city is like being handed a Christmas present. You have no idea what’s inside and whether you’ll like it or just be polite about it and say things like Emma Woodhouse would: “When pressed, I say she’s elegant!” Well, I didn’t have to force politeness after my introduction to York by my friends Suzi and Keith Clarke, who absolutely adore the place and visit each year. My husband’s ancestors come from Skirpenbeck, just outside York, and he had visited several times and told me I would love it. But I had to see it for myself, and I’m delighted I can share it with you!

After flying into London, I hopped into the car with Suzi and Keith for the long drive to York. Just getting out of London took a while (so glad Keith was driving–I don’t know how you can navigate out of that maze!). The scenery didn’t change much for the first couple of hours, but as we crossed into Yorkshire, I spotted the famous hills and dales–and the heather-covered moors made famous by the Brontes. We pulled into our hotel right outside the Monkbar and checked in. Suzi and Keith opted to take it easy after the long drive, but I decided to take myself on a short walking tour to get my bearings right away. I was very eager to see the famous York Minster up close as well.

York Minster — The awe-inspiring sight of the cathedral’s side entrance with the famous rose window at the top.

The day was overcast but not very chilly, so I walked around slowly, savoring each new turn and twist in York’s winding streets. Before I knew it, I was rounding the cathedral through Minster Gate. You can see a bit of scaffolding on the right in the photo above. The tower end of the church is undergoing extensive repair to the stained glass windows and exterior stonework. The stonemason’s yard is right outside and visible to the public, which means you can see them working to reproduce gargoyles and other interesting bits that have worn away over time. I had hoped to step into the cathedral to hear evensong, but the doors were firmly shut, so I just snapped pictures outside.

The great central door at York Minster — The massive central front door of the cathedral.

Like London, York is full of flowers in containers and hanging baskets all over the place. I loved the ones in great abundance all around the cathedral:

Tearing myself away from the Minster, I decided to explore the little side streets, shops, tea rooms and pubs that fill this enchanting place. Naturally, it was near closing time, but I managed to mentally file away several places I wanted to revisit the next day!

"Little Betty's," York — This is the smallest “Betty’s” of York. There are six locations in Yorkshire, which have been serving delicious afternoon teas and meals since 1909!

The Golden Slipper, York — Flowers and a golden slipper hang above the entrance to this charming public house.

Minerva watching over the foot traffic below in York — Minerva watching over the foot traffic below on the corner of High Petergate and Minster Gates.

St Helen's Square, York — Flower-filled St Helen’s Square

I arrived at the largest “Betty’s” location just before closing time and managed to squeeze in for cream tea with only a five-minute wait (the queue is usually out the door and around the corner!). This beautiful art deco place was opened in 1909 and retains all of its original charm. This place is definitely on the itinerary for the 2016 tour!

Menu at Betty's Tea Room, York — The menu and flowers on my table.

The steward apologized that the kitchen had run out of scones but offered me “Fat Rascals” instead. Since I’d heard from a friend that I must try them, I gladly took the substitution!

Cream Tea at Betty's, York — Cream Tea with Lemon Curd Cake. Utterly delicious!

Fortified with tea, I made my way slowly back to the hotel, peeking into shops all along the way. And now that you’ve dipped your pinky toe into the delights of York, you’ll have to come back for my next post, which will share our foray into Bronte Land and more of the lovely city I enjoyed for three days!

Costumes in Snibston and Home!

Because my flight out of the UK was late at night, Cathy and I had a full day to kill on the way to Heathrow. She recommended we stop at the Snibston Discovery Museum, which is just off the motorway. I’d taken my tour group there in 2012, and we enjoyed not only the museum displays but behind-the-scenes study of the fabulous Symington corset collection. Cathy mentioned there was a new display in the costume section, so I readily agreed to the stop. We loaded the car, and I bade farewell to this beautiful corner of Sherwood Forest. It had been an enchanting weekend!

Out through the beautiful carriageway for the last time.... — Out through the beautiful carriageway for the last time….

The Discovery Museum actually has the largest costume display outside of London, but it is tucked away behind a huge new neighborhood and is easy to overlook. It would really be a shame if it had to close down (there have been murmurs about doing so for a couple of years), especially as the Symington collection is world class and offers an incredible opportunity to those who wish to reproduce period undergarments authentically (even down to the floss designs used to embellish the corsets!). We strolled into an empty museum and had the costume display all to ourselves:

Stunning Regency Gown & Shawl, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Stunning Regency Gown & Shawl

Lovely trimmed Regency Pellisse, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Lovely trimmed Regency Pellisse

Detail of Regency Pelisse, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Detail of Regency Pelisse

Hem of gown beneath the Regency Pelisse, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Hem of gown beneath the Regency Pelisse

1780s Polonaise Gown, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — 1780s Polonaise Gown

Another view of the Polonaise Gown, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Another view of the Polonaise Gown

1860s Blouse and Skirt, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — 1860s Blouse and Skirt

Detail of 1860s Blouse, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Detail of 1860s Blouse

Selection of Edwardian and Teens Corsets and Underthings, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Selection of Edwardian and Teens Corsets and Underthingss

Regency Gent's Tailcoat and Breeches, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Regency Gent’s Tailcoat and Breeches

Silk 1860s Gown, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Silk 1860s Gown

Lovely Edwardian Afternoon Gown, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Lovely Edwardian Afternoon Gown

1910s Dresses, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — 1910s Dresses

Lady's Edwardian Riding Habit, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Lady’s Edwardian Riding Habit

Classic 1950s Sweater Set & Skirt, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Classic 1950s Sweater Set & Skirt

Lovely 1950s Printed Rayon Dress, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Lovely 1950s Printed Rayon Dress

Detail of Printed Rayon 1950s Dress, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Detail of Printed Rayon 1950s Dress

1940s Day Dress, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — 1940s Day Dress

Romantic Era Gown with Embroidered Pelerine, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Romantic Era Gown with Embroidered Pelerine

Closeup of Romantic Era Dress with Embroidered Pelerine, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Closeup of Romantic Era Dress with Embroidered Pelerine

Little Boy's "White Rabbit" Costume for an "Alice" party, Snibston (We had to smile, having just been to an "Alice"-themed Masque!) | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Little Boy’s “White Rabbit” Costume for an “Alice” party (We had to smile, having just been to an “Alice”-themed Masque!)

Gent's Embroidered Georgian Jacket and Waistcoat, Snibston | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Gent’s Embroidered Georgian Jacket and Waistcoat

It is always interesting to read the display cards included with historical outfits, because they often give a clearer view of the curator’s or collector’s opinion than of actual facts. The new section of garments worn during WWI had a marquee containing a longish “tirade” of sorts against corsets, perpetuating many myths that should long since have been laid to rest. Oh, well… I guess we shouldn’t be surprised, given the conniption fits people had about Lily James’s corseted waist in “Cinderella” (which, as the designer noted, was an optical illusion created by the full tulle skirt). Still, a well-done display on the whole, and it’s worth a stop if you’re in the area!

The day clouded over as we headed further south toward Heathrow, and we stopped to enjoy a nice lunch on the way. The charming little pub we ate in was putting on a real English Christmas dinner, so we gladly dove in. It was delicious and really felt like a Dickensian touch to my holiday trip. (Thanks for the treat, Cathy!)

Christmas Dinner! | Sense & Sensibility Tours — Christmas Dinner!

From Snibston to Heathrow, Cathy and I talked about the next tour and a possible December holiday tour, and I jotted down lots of notes. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get everything together in time to fully book either tour in 2015, but Suzi Clarke and I have a brand new itinerary falling into place for 2016, and Cathy and I hope to pull off a December tour similar to my trip in 2014 as well. If you’re interested, be sure to check the main tour site for details, and drop me a line, because the waiting list fills quickly each time! Thanks for coming along for the ride through my blog. I will be traveling to the UK again this September to finalize details for the 2016 trip, and I’ll be sure to share the fun as I go!

Warmly,

Kedleston Hall

We had a wonderful, quiet Sunday morning (well, Cathy drove the sitter home while I chilled out with my baby on the couch!), then I happily took up Cathy on her offer to see Kedleston Hall, which is another of Derbyshire’s stately homes that features jaw-dropping Robert Adam architecture (perfectly preserved upstairs) and the wonderful Indian collection of the late Lord and Lady Curzon. The exhibit in the lower hall includes the spectacular Peacock Dress worn by Lady Curzon in 1902 to celebrate the coronation of King Edward VII. Cathy has an ongoing project to reproduce this amazing gown (and the ideas for its debut continue to percolate–oh, what fun!). The upstairs of Kedleston is resplendently Georgian and feels like stepping into a film set (all we lacked were the appropriate 18th-century costumes and fabulous towering wigs!). The photo (by Cathy) at the top is of The Marble Hall. It is absolutely stunning in person.

Looking up at the ceiling of the Marble Hall with its gorgeous pillars.

Even the statues in the niches of the Marble Hall had been decked out for Christmas!

The domed ceiling of the Saloon, inspired by The Pantheon in Rome.

Because the house was decorated for Christmas, we got to enjoy trees and lights and even famous paintings set around an Advent theme. This portrait of the Holy Family was set up in the Saloon.

During parts of the year, certain rooms in the upstairs are closed to the public or are shrouded in semi-darkness to preserve paint and fabrics. This meant we wandered through the gloom in the anterooms, trying to let our eyes adjust so we could see the splendors before us. I would really love to return during another time of year to see these in all their glory!

The Dining Room, set up for a holiday meal with candles and greenery.

The State Bedroom has recently been redone to restore its original colors and copy the fabrics that were used on the walls and in the drapery of the bed and windows. We had to be content with a candlelit view!

A cozy nook in the State Bedroom with a writing desk and tools.

Looks like someone is ready to enjoy breakfast by the fireplace. (Photo by Cathy Hay)

And now what you’ve really been waiting for … the famous Peacock Dress!

The full-length portrait of Lady Mary Curzon in the Peacock Dress. This hangs in the stairway hall at Kedleston.

The dress is kept in a temperature-controlled glass case in low light to preserve it from further decay (it is quite delicate with all the fine materials and beading).

Back view of the gown... — Back view of the gown… (Wish there was a way to get photos without the glass reflecting!)

A view of the train in all its intricate glory.

Here’ s a bit of the description of the embroidery and construction from Cathy’s site:

The embroidery itself is composed of gold and silver plated threads and wires, with a section of a beetle elytra (wing cover) forming each peacock feather eye.

The dress is often described as being made of “cloth of gold”, a term that has two meanings. It can mean a fabric literally woven using gold and silver threads, but in this case the second meaning is accurate: a fabric heavily embellished in goldwork embroidery.

The hem is accented with almost a hundred white silk roses. The original roses were replaced in the 1950s, according to records at the Museum of London.

Be sure to read Cathy’s site for all the juicy details — this is one jaw-dropping creation!

One more closeup of the train to show all those silk roses and beetle wings!

After enjoying our self-guided tour of the house, Cathy and I seated ourselves in the lovely restaurant (formerly the kitchen of the great house) to enjoy afternoon tea:

And before we left, we stepped into the Kedleston chapel to see Lady Curzon’s tomb. She and Lord Curzon had a happy marriage, and he was devastated when she died at the very young age of 36 (of failing health related to her many trips to India). Lord Curzon commissioned a beautiful tomb effigy of his wife (and his effigy was added later, after his death):

Here’s a bit on the history, which I found on The Story of a House: Mary Curzon, Vicereine of India:

The sculptor, Sir Bertram Mackennal, created a stunningly beautiful and touching effigy of Lady Curzon which, per her husband’s wishes “expressed as might be possible in marble, the pathos of his wife’s premature death and to make the sculpture emblematic of the deepest emotion.” Lord Curzon’s effigy was later added to lie beside that of his wife, as his remains do in the vault beneath.

It really is a moving piece of work, and the intimate chapel is just the right setting for it. Lady Mary left behind her a wonderful legacy of care of others as well (quoted from the same source):

Lady Curzon became a proponent of the artisans and manufacturers in India and wore Indian fabrics making them fashionable throughout India as well as London, Paris and the capitals of Europe. She placed orders for her friends and strangers alike, and assisted the silk weavers, embroiderers, and other artists to adapt their work to Western tastes and modern fashion. In addition, she helped revive native arts that had been all but forgotten, providing employment to many artisans.

She also had a strong interest in medical reform and led the movement to establish hospitals for women and appointing female doctors. The Lady Curzon Hospital in Bangalore is one of several established during her time in India.

A fitting end to a quiet Sunday. Next time I’ll share my photos from the Symington Collection at Snibston!

Chatsworth’s Masqued Ball (or “Down the Rabbit Hole with Alice!”)

When my husband first surprised me with this special trip, it was early enough that I’d have time to put together my costume for the masquerade ball at the end … but, naturally, grandiose schemes were the first to cross my mind! I could totally see making a 1780s take on the White Queen, from panniers to a towering powdered wig! Then common sense (and the deadline and my actual suitcase space) reined me in, and I decided to go for something far less ambitious but still fun. I’ve always loved the original John Tenniel illustrations for Alice in Wonderland and thought I’d make a version of Alice’s iconic blue dress with red-trimmed white apron for my costume. I’d be able to use my 1958 Party Dress Pattern for the blue dress, then draft a pinafore pattern based on the illustrations. My ten-year-old daughter also loves vintage clothing and is learning to sew by my side, so she sat daydreaming over illustrations and even images of 1950s “Alice” dolls as we came up with ideas:

Various versions of "Alice" from Madame Alexander in the 1940s an 1950s. — Various versions of “Alice” from Madame Alexander in the 1940s an 1950s.

My little helper, wearing the final test dress for the new Girls Classic 1950s Shirt Dress pattern I'm finishing off right now for press! — My little helper, wearing the final test dress for the new Girls Classic 1950s Shirt Dress pattern I’m finishing off right now for press!

We went shopping for fabric and trim together, trying to nail down just the right “Alice” blue and found both that and the gauzy organdy for the pinafore. I finally opted for red ribbon trim, since it is pictured in many of the Tenniel illustrations (though other versions show simply tucks or no trimming at all). I packed my fluffy 1950s crinoline to wear beneath the dress, then found an “Alice” wig online, along with a mask, and had those sent to Suzi’s ahead of me.

So on the Saturday afternoon, while Cathy popped out to get the sitter who would watch my baby for the evening (bless her!), I ironed my dress and fluffed out the wig. By the time Cathy got back, I was all ready to go, and she quickly got suited up as a dapper version of The Mad Hatter. We were ready for our “Wonderland” tour of Chatsworth, the three-course meal, and the musical entertainment of The Vernon Sisters! Cathy lives quite close to Chatsworth, and we enjoyed the drive over, then eagerly got out and hurried through the cold night air into the warmth and light of Chatsworth all lit up for Christmas!

"Alice" and the "Hatter" head down the rabbit hole! — “Alice” and the “Hatter” head down the rabbit hole! I’ve got my “Drink Me” bottle in my hand and a tiny white rabbit tucked into my apron pocket.

The first hall was decorated with pages from books and quotes from Alice in Wonderland. — The first hall was decorated with pages from books and quotes from *Alice in Wonderland*.

A miniature Alice hangs amongst the pages on the walls.

The first Alice prop is a tiny table with a flask and a cake standing on top. Shall I sample them? The little door finishes the scene perfectly. (Photo by Cathy Hay.)

The Family Chapel at Chatsworth, decorated for the season. (Cathy Hay)

The Caterpillar on his mushroom greets us in the next room! (Cathy Hay)

A Fishy Footman welcomes us to the Duchess's house. (Cathy Hay) — A Fishy Footman welcomes us to the Duchess’s house. The Duchess sits behind with her piggy baby! (Cathy Hay)

Chatsworth's Mad Hatter stands atop the tea table in the Painted Hall. (Cathy Hay) — Chatsworth’s Mad Hatter stands atop the tea table in the Painted Hall. Note all the mismatched teacups and plates. Perfect! (Cathy Hay)

The Dormouse peeps out sleepily from the giant teapot in the center of the table. (Cathy Hay)

The Tea Table in the Painted Hall. (Cathy Hay)

My shot of the beautiful garland around the upper balcony of The Painted Hall.

The Vernon Sisters began their evening's singing entertainment in The Painted Hall, wearing retro 1930s outfits. — The Vernon Sisters began their evening’s singing entertainment in The Painted Hall, wearing retro 1930s outfits.

I stepped upstairs to get a shot of The Painted Hall from above. Beautiful space for a soiree!

Very "Alice"-themed treats were carried round by the servers. Note the "Eat Me" theme and the clocks! (Cathy Hay) — Very “Alice”-themed treats were carried round by the servers. Note the “Eat Me” theme, the jam tarts, checkerboard cakes, and the clocks! (Cathy Hay)

Another shot of the goody tray. Such fun!

After the welcoming treats in The Painted Hall, we made our way upstairs and found flamingos circling above us! (Cathy Hay)

The Cheshire Cat smiles from the grand piano in the hall.

A glimpse into Chatsworth's gorgeous library (Cathy Hay) — A glimpse into Chatsworth’s gorgeous library (Cathy Hay)

Here we are just outside the library (alas, no one was allowed in....). — Here we are just outside the library (alas, no one was allowed in….).

I'm sure no one recognizes THIS famous veiled lady statue! — I’m sure no one recognizes THIS famous veiled lady statue!

One of Chatsworth's State Rooms. I caught Cathy snapping a photo of the Christmas tree (I lost count at 42 trees -- simply boggling!). — One of Chatsworth’s State Rooms. I caught Cathy snapping a photo of the Christmas tree (I lost count at 42 trees — simply boggling!).

The Queen of Hearts lords it over all the hapless cards playing wickets at croquet. (Cathy Hay)

The only other "Alice" at this event was one of the staff members. Can you believe it? I thought we'd be swimming in "Alices!" (Cathy Hay) — The only other “Alice” at this event was one of the staff members. Can you believe it? I thought we’d be swimming in “Alices!” (Cathy Hay)

Yet another tongue-in-cheek "Alice" garland. This one sports tarts and tart tins! — Yet another tongue-in-cheek “Alice” garland. This one sports tarts and tart tins!

We reach the end of the tour and take a turn "enthroned" for our portrait. — We reach the end of the tour and take a turn “enthroned” for our portrait. (And, yes, that’s another picture-taker’s hand at the right — oh, well, this was the only way to get our portrait!)

Into the Carriage House to find our table and be seated for dinner. Beautiful! (Cathy Hay)

Our table with all the trimmings. (Cathy Hay)

The Vernon Sisters, back again in 1950s costumes. These ladies can SING!

We enjoyed a thoroughly delicious meal and the great music, then slipped away before we turned into pumpkins at midnight. It was a lovely evening and especially fun in costume. Both Cathy and I were surprised there weren’t more people dressed for the theme (lots of tuxes and evening gowns in evidence). Can’t you just imagine a big group of historical costume enthusiasts dressed in (ahem) proper full fancy dress? Well, we have dreams for a future trip with like-minded friends along! Want to join us? 😉

I still had one day left before my evening flight, so I’ll post one more time with the delights of Kedleston Hall, the costume collection at Snibston, and a real, Dickensian Christmas dinner!

Off to Nottingham!

I repacked my suitcases Friday night to squeeze in all the fabric I’d gotten on an outing with Suzi on Wednesday (I wish I’d taken photos — SUCH a fabulous shop!). The next morning, Keith drove Cathy, the baby, and me to St. Pancras Station, which I’d never seen before. Goodness! It is an absolutely jaw-dropping example of Victorian Gothic architecture. I took pictures inside the station, then (on Cathy’s urging) walked down to see the hotel, which has been gloriously restored to its original splendor.

The interior of the station, decked out for Christmas.

Outside front of the station, looking up at the clock tower.

Looking down from the station toward the hotel.

I wanted to see the amazing interior of the hotel, but I managed to enter through the wrong door and wound up in the lounge of the apartments block. A sign pointed to an exit door (so I thought) labeled “Grand Staircase,” and I decided to see where it led. WOW! I managed to give myself a behind-the-scenes look at this beautiful place:

After wandering through a winding hallway, I came out in the front lobby/breakfast room of the hotel and back out onto the front sidewalk. Tickled pink at my “unauthorized” peep at this lovely place, I hurried back to swap places with Cathy, so she could also have a look. She took these detail shots on her turn behind the scenes:

Cathy's shot of the Grand Staircase — Cathy’s shot of the Grand Staircase

Looking up the Grand Staircase to the amazing ceiling at the top.

Shortly after Cathy got back, grinning broadly at her own little “tour,” we headed upstairs to board our train, then settled in for a two-hour trip up to Nottingham. I’d never visited Nottingham before and enjoyed seeing the countryside and a wee bit of the town after we arrived and took a taxi out to Cathy’s place. One of these days, I’ll have to go back and explore the costume collection, the castle, and the art museum within the castle! Driving through Robin Hood country was delightful, and it was certainly a bit of childhood wish fulfillment to drive into Sherwood Forest (the little that is left of it, alas). Cathy’s utterly charming cottage looks out into the forest, which is wonderfully Romantic:

What could be through the door in the garden wall?

'Tis Sherwood Forest! (Can't you just hear Errol Flynn saying, "Welcome to Sherwood, m'lady!" ??) — ‘Tis Sherwood Forest! (Can’t you just hear Errol Flynn saying, “Welcome to Sherwood, m’lady!” ??)

The view from my room down into the courtyard through (sigh!) leaded glass.

And the view into the forest in the other direction. Wonderful!

It was delightful to get into the warmth of Cathy’s kitchen and enjoy a cup of tea. We were really looking forward to the evening’s festivities at Chatsworth, and I was tickled pink about the amazing accessory Cathy had found when we were at the V&A Museum Shop:

The theme for the 2014 Masquerade Ball was Alice in Wonderland, and I made myself a Tenniel-inspired Alice costume. Can you believe Cathy spotted this for me to carry? Wheee!

Cathy drove out to fetch the very kind friend who had offered to stay with my little one during the evening, and I ironed my costume and tried on my wig. Before I knew it, we were both in costume and on our way to Chatsworth in Derbyshire! Next time I’ll share all the photos from that incredible evening–something I never would even have dreamed of putting on a bucket list!

Harrods and Selfridges at Christmas

Cathy and I took in the Harrods windows after our afternoon tea at the V&A Museum Cafe’. It was quite dark by the time we stepped out of the Knightsbridge tube station and walked toward the famous store (that early London dusk in December!). My phone battery gave up the ghost at that point, so Cathy graciously shared all her photos with me:

Caroling mice in a window filled with "snow." — Caroling mice in a window filled with “snow.”

A giant marionette in a shimmering gown. The windows had a toy theme in 2015!

The smallest windows along the sidewalk were filled with tiny tableaux of mice at play with full-sized shoes, jewelry, and more. Such fun!

The conductor mouse leads with his baton.

Miss Seamstress Mouse makes a lovely tutu for her fashion doll client.

The Piece de Resistance: A life-sized music box ballerina in a resplendent ostrich-tip tutu!

We stood and gawped as the sparkling marvel twirled on her box.

The amount of work that went into this costume was astounding.

On Friday evening, we took the bus up to Oxford Street. This was my first time there at night, and I got totally turned around and took us down the wrong way (right instead of left, in case you’re ever there stepping off a Number 12 bus from points south!). It was a long, long walk from Selfridges in the end. Oh, well. We got a workout and saw all kinds of things, including carolers, bands, and dance groups out on the sidewalks. All the trees on the street were decorated with silvery blue fairy lights that had an “icicle” effect with random “drops” falling — wish I could have captured a video!

When we finally reached Selfridges, we weren’t as impressed with their windows (Harrods definitely won the holiday windows award, in our books!). They followed a fairy tale theme, but some of them left us scratching our heads. Here were the ones I liked enough to photograph:

The Miller's Daughter spinning straw into gold...with a spider's web? — The Miller’s Daughter spinning straw into gold…with a spider’s web?

Goldilocks sitting in a tree... — Goldilocks sitting in a tree…

The Three Bears' Chairs with owls (?) and porridge. — The Three Bears’ Chairs with owls (?) and porridge.

I liked the tiny lit windows in the trees in one window. — I liked the tiny lit windows in the trees in one display.

A Giant Gingerbread House...but no Hansel or Gretel. — A Giant Gingerbread House…but no Hansel or Gretel.

Tiny Paddington Bears all around, thanks to the anniversary!

We walked back to Regent Street and boarded the bus for home in a light sprinkle of rain. My feet were dead tired, but the baby was sound asleep in my carrier, and it had been a fun evening. Next time I’ll share about our trip to Nottingham and Derbyshire from St Pancras!

Fine Art, Wedding Gowns, and a Police Box!

Suzi had a morning appointment on Friday and urged Cathy and me to do something on our own. She and Keith would meet us for lunch around 1. So we took the bus to Oxford Street, then walked past Selfridges to Manchester Square, home to the stunning jewel box that contains The Wallace Collection–one of London’s best kept art museum secrets. The collection is a multi-generational one, “which displays the wonderful works of art collected in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries by the first four Marquesses of Hertford and Sir Richard Wallace, the son of the 4th Marquess. It was bequeathed to the British nation by Sir Richard’s widow, Lady Wallace, in 1897.” The house itself is worth the visit, but the art it contains has lured me back four times.

Part of an illuminated manuscript in the collection.

Cathy and I began downstairs, with the large collection of religious art and miniatures protected under glass with special leather covers to prevent fading. The downstairs displays follow the exterior walls of the house, going around the central glassed-in conservatory, which now holds the museum’s cafe and restaurant. Most of the armor galleries were closed for conservation, but we did get to check out some absolutely stunning carved saddles (which look horrifically uncomfortable until you remember that the rider would have been in full armor, and the saddle built to support that). This room also holds many beautiful paintings depicting North African subjects, which I found fascinating, having lived in Africa for over four years. I wish I had gotten a photo of the painting of a Sudanese man hunting a lion, because this is actually still a rite of passage in many Sudanese tribes today, so it’s actually quite modern, though the subject was painted in the late 18th century.

We continued up the grand staircase into the central hall, where I took a detail shot of an idyllic 18th-century scene:

What cracks me up is the lady "relaxing" in the foreground. Anyone who has worn early 18th-century stays knows this is about as casual as you can get while sitting on the ground! — What cracks me up is the lady “relaxing” in the foreground. Anyone who has worn early 18th-century stays knows this is about as casual as you can get while sitting on the ground!

The upstairs rooms are decorated sumptuously with fabric on the walls and incredible curtains. I think Cathy took as many photos of curtains upstairs as of artwork, because many would have made splendid gowns! I grabbed a snap of this one, which would be a lovely Regency gown:

Very much like the spotted muslin of Jane Austen's time... — Very much like the spotted muslin of Jane Austen’s time…

And here's the full window so you can see the silk curtains as well. Sumptuous! — And here’s the full window so you can see the silk curtains as well. Sumptuous!

I love imagining the art soirees and parties that were held in this house in its heyday. Each room opens into the next and has its own color theme and subject matter. This is the still life (Dutch masters) room:

Lots of paintings of game and fruit with flowers, plus beautiful chinoiserie furniture.

Next up is my favorite room:

I love the blue, white and gold theme and all the Watteau-style portraits. — I love the blue, white and gold theme and all the Rococo-style portraits.

Fragonard's The Swing is in this room.... — Fragonard’s The Swing is in this room….

This is a desk meant for the lady of the house. Goodness, I could be organized with such a lovely piece!

Another lovely 18th-century portrait. — Another beautiful 18th-century portrait. I love the fabric and lace details in these paintings.

Ermine trim on a stunning scarlet gown. Wow!

This painting was an inspiration for my Girls' 1780s Portrait Dress pattern. Love the hat! — This painting was an inspiration for my Girls’ 1780s Portrait Dress pattern. Love the hat!

This is my favorite family painting in the whole museum--a very tender portrait of a mother and her child from the 1760s. — This is my favorite family painting in the whole museum–a very tender portrait of Mrs Susanna Hoare and Child by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1763-64.

A dancer in nature--seems to be a popular theme, as there was one room with at least half a dozen similar treatments. — A dancer in nature–seems to be a popular theme, as there was one room with at least half a dozen similar treatments.

Thomas Sully portrait of a Regency lady in a crossover gown.

This is my favorite room for its skylighted ceiling, rich red backdrop, and collection of amazing 15th-17th-century paintings.

The Laughing Cavalier is kept in this gallery. Love his expression!

Cathy got this great close-up shot of the Laughing Cavalier's slashed sleeve. — Cathy got this great close-up shot of the Laughing Cavalier’s slashed sleeve.

Detail shot of a lace collar from another portrait.

This diminutive painting of two ladies dressing shows their brightly-colored corsets.

This is my shot of the Two Ladies Dressing to show the full costumes.

A Young Lady Playing a Guitar by C Netscher (1669)

A detail shot from a painting of a girl playing a guitar to show her sleeves and neckline. The velvet looked touchable!

A sad and touching portrait of the Two Princes in the Tower of London.

I am a sucker for any painting that depicts a woman reading. This one is gorgeous!

Can't you just reach out and touch the fabric on her sleeve? Painters of this time period excelled at capturing light and texture. Amazing. — Can’t you just reach out and touch the fabric on her sleeve? Painters of this time period excelled at capturing light and texture. Amazing.

Girl Threading a Needle by Candlelight by G Schalcken (1670s).

We enjoyed our leisurely morning in the collection, then headed to the conservatory restaurant to meet Suzi and Keith:

Wonderful to sit inside out of the cold and weather but still feel like you're outdoors! — Wonderful to sit inside out of the cold and weather but still feel like you’re outdoors!

Lunch was delicious, but dessert was absolutely divine: Dark Chocolate and Caramel Tart with Cream!

Suzi, Cathy, and I talked and strategized about the September 2015 tour and worked out some new options while we ate. It was a delightful time, and then Cathy and I opted to head onward to the V&A Museum to see the special Wedding Gowns exhibit on in the Costume Gallery. Alas, photos weren’t allowed, so you’ll have to be content with this picture of the exhibit guidebook and my ticket!

Oh, and let me take time out for my teenage Dr Who geeks, who begged me to find an iconic police box in London and snap a picture. Turns out there is one a tube stop beyond the V&A at the Earls Court station. I wasn’t sure which exit to take, so I stopped at the information booth. Before I could get out, “I’m looking for the…” the guard pointed the other direction and said, “It’s that way!” Obviously, this is a popular attraction!

For all fans of The Doctor out there.... — For all fans of The Doctor out there…. You never know *Who* you will run into in London!

Cathy and I decided to have tea and a welcome sit-down break in the V&A’s William Morris cafe’, which is always a treat:

Next time I’ll share photos from the Christmas Windows at Selfridges and Harrods!

Fortnum & Mason at Christmas

After Cathy’s arrival, we decided to simply hop a bus up to Piccadilly Circus and walk around as dusk fell, enjoying the lights of Piccadilly Street, Regent Street, and all the lovely little side streets that connect the two. It begins to grow dark around 4pm at that time of year, so it’s quite easy to catch all the lights without being out very late. I strapped my little one into her Snugli carrier and put on my coat. The weather was fair and dry but quite nippy, giving zest to the air as we walked from Suzi’s house to the bus stop. (Suzi had decided to stay home and “potter” rather than walk all over downtown.)

As we chatted about things to do in London, I found out Cathy had never once been inside Fortnum & Mason. I nearly squealed with excitement, because it’s my favorite shop in the whole city as far as “atmosphere” goes. It really looks like a quintessential 19th-century English store should look (at least to my American imagination). I couldn’t wait to show it to Cathy. We got off the bus in Piccadilly Circus and stopped in at the big Boots on the corner to get some water before heading on from there. While descending the escalator, Cathy pointed out a rather Famous Personage standing in front of us (I have to ask Cathy who it was, because my mind is drawing a blank at this point!). This happens quite a lot in London, it seems. I’ve nearly bumped into Colin Firth, been within waving distance of Helen Mirren, and spied Prince William from across the street on prior trips. What’s interesting is that (except in the case of the prince, who was on an official tour of a new science exhibit), there were no cameras flashing nor paparazzi following. Kind of nice to know Colin Firth can walk into Boots and buy something without anyone batting an eye….

Anyway, we made our way up Piccadilly and gawped at the simply gorgeous window displays at Fortnum & Mason before going in. These are all Cathy’s photos, as I had a wriggly baby strapped to my front and didn’t manage to get many that weren’t blurred. 😉

Wine and whiskey bottles displayed in a cascade of "ice" running over rocks. — Wine and whiskey bottles displayed in a cascade of “ice” running over rocks.

F&M can't display anything in an ordinary manner. This is a selection of items from its Food Hall, placed in a miniature gazebo. — F&M can’t display anything in an ordinary manner. This is a selection of items from its Food Hall, placed in a miniature gazebo.

Another selection of treats from the Food Hall, arranged on a "fountain" of plenty. — Another selection of treats from the Food Hall, arranged on a “fountain” of plenty.

A sumptuous (and really delicious-looking) display of cakes and puddings. — A sumptuous (and really delicious-looking) display of cakes and puddings in “snow.”

Candlesticks, electric candles (that looked SO real), crystal and cut glass scintillate.

A beautiful selection of silver tableware. I really drooled over this window. F&M's sterling sets have been the same for nearly 200 years -- just classic. — A beautiful selection of silver tableware. I really drooled over this window. F&M’s sterling sets have been the same for nearly 200 years — just classic.

A dapper display of gifts for the gentlemen, including leather traveling cases, gloves, and canes!

By the time we got halfway through the window displays, we were starving! This is more tiny tarts and pies.

And still more! Everything looked so sumptuous!

I had to get a detail shot of the pretend icicles decorating the tops of each window:

Annnnnd then we went inside, as the dapper doorman held the door for us!

We entered through the side staircase and went through the doors into the brilliantly-lit confectionary hall, which is stocked with teas, candies, biscuits and more. It was jam-packed with people, so I threaded my way through and looked over the bannister down into the Food Hall below:

Looking down into the Food Hall... — Looking down into the Food Hall…

We went down the spiral staircase and into the glorious shop that is my favorite place to find unique gifts for foodies back home.

While I browsed through unusual herbs and spices, Cathy took a shot of the “biggest gingerbread house I’ve ever seen”:

After picking up a few small tins of herbs for a chef friend back home and some small kitchen goodies for myself, we headed back up the staircase. Glancing up, I gasped at the suspended Christmas trees, decorated all in silver and lights:

Cathy was bowled over by the stunning perfumery on the next floor and had an amazing conversation with a young lady who comes from a long line of perfume makers in England. F&M had recently discovered an old stash of vintage perfumes they had sold in the early 1900s, contacted the family, then had them reproduce the scents to put back on the market today. Because Cathy is working on the Peacock Dress, she had a lot of questions about what scents women of Lady Curzon’s time would have been wearing. I’m sure she’ll have more to share about that later!

I went up to my favorite floor, which showcases all the kitchenware, tea pots, tea cups, cookbooks, etc.

And my very favorite--F&M's iconic silver tea service (sigh...the pot alone is about 125 pounds--ouch). — And my very favorite–F&M’s iconic silver tea service (sigh…the pot alone is about 125 pounds–ouch).

F&M’s Parlour Ice Cream Shop and Tea Room is on this floor, so I stood in line to see if I could get us a place for afternoon tea. As always, it was worth the wait!

I had scones with Devonshire cream and strawberry jam, while Cathy enjoyed Black Forest cake. We both opted for the rich, dark hot chocolate!

We went up to the fourth floor to browse through F&M’s enchanting Christmas Shop, which is open from September through December. So beautiful!

We walked back down the side staircase into the Perfumery, and I took this shot, looking from the balcony down the layers and into the Food Hall:

Loved how the Christmas trees were suspended like chandeliers! — I loved how the Christmas trees were suspended like chandeliers!

We stepped outside the doors just as the big clock set into the face of the building began to strike six. This is a real treat to watch, as the Fortnum & Mason clock has automatons who come out and “greet” each other on the hour, fully dressed in 18th-century court clothing and bearing candelabra aloft.

Here’s my close-up to show the figures. Wish I could have gotten a clearer shot:

The two figures face one another and bow.

It’s great fun to watch, and we just grinned at our timing. Cathy and I decided to walk back to Regent Street and see the lights before boarding the bus for Suzi’s. I grabbed a couple of snaps of shop windows I loved:

Burberry's beautiful window display with an amazing ruffled gown. — Burberry’s beautiful window display with an amazing ruffled gown.

Can't remember the name of this shop, but I loved the retro 1950s dress in the window and the backdrop of white books on shelves. — Can’t remember the name of this shop, but I loved the retro 1950s dress in the window and the backdrop of white books on shelves.

Cathy managed to snap this wonderful shot of the iconic Liberty of London shop from the bus!

We got back to Suzi’s in time for an absolutely delicious fish pie and settled down to sleep. Friday we would take in the delights of The Wallace Collection and enjoy Oxford Street by night!